FARM TRK Build

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

This will be somewhat of an abbreviated build thread. If anyone has questions feel free to hollar. This is the truck after “defarming” her. No more step bumper. No more receiver hitch. Big truck mirrors gone. Windows tinted. The grille was pretty beat up and the '67 grille is my preference so in went a '67 grille.

Well we all know it was sitting just way too high. Need to do something about that. I think I will start with a thorough inspection of the front suspension.

Yep just as I thought. The I Beam suspension was the culprit. We need to do something about that. Well while we are at it why not upgrade to 12" rotors, dual piston calipers, rack & pinion steering & a Police Interceptor handling pkg? Sounds good to me. Let's use a 2005 Panther IFS.

Sure hope this works out. If not I have no idea how I am going to put the I Beam suspension back in! Good news, it worked! Well sort of. Have the wheels back on but no brakes, steering or motor mounts. Still sits too high but better.

Ok time to get serious. We need to fab up a steering shaft.

Rear mounts for the lower control ams.

After getting the brake lines run, motor mounts fabbed in and the PS lines in I took it to a friend of mine who had an all stock 1968 2WD F100 just to get an idea. By the way stops great, corners flat & the 2.25/2.5 lock to lock of the rack is awesome!

I guess it's not too bad. I'm bored! What next? How about we do some fender scoops? Sounds like a plan to me! Let's take one of the old fenders and get our layout.

Looks good to me. On to the fenders!

Not bad. Hit em quick with grinder and then a coat of spray bomb primer.

Well now I feel guilty! Those were pretty nice fenders. Oh well too late now. What's next? How about a set of 1 1/2" drop springs? Then let's go see that '68 again.

Getting better but the poor thing has a 7 1/2" rake now. We have to do something about that. Before that I say we fix those holes in the cowl. They are getting on my nerves. Why not? We have already hacked up a set of original 40 yr old steel fenders!

Let's drop the tail 3". This is how she sits at the present patiently waiting for the IRS to be installed.

Just can't leave well enough alone. Off with the bumper!

Got a pic of the front suspension with the bumper off.

Should have pics of the bumper back on the truck some time next week if all goes well.

JIMMER's picture
Date Joined: Sep 01, 2011
Posts: 197
Points: 220

Did I see fenders in the living room? Now that is dedication. LOL

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
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Yes you did. It was winter time. The funny part was when I hit them with primer I painted her carpet too! Talk about working to get paint up before she got home. We have had a few funnies doing this truck. The IFS was done where I worked on the weekend. Sunday night & time to clean the floor. Scrubbing was no problem but getting it up? Found a scrap piece of foam and cut it into chunks to use like sponges. We rinsed them in the sink. You know the sink right next to the mop in a bucket.

JIMMER's picture
Date Joined: Sep 01, 2011
Posts: 197
Points: 220

HA HA HA Sadly I don't have any funny stories to go with my modifications. A lot of blood, injuries and even a mild electrocution, but nothing funny. Well, looking back, the mild electrocution was kind of funny, since it didn't happen to me. LOL.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Here are the hood badges I am thinking about. These are originals that are pitted. I wanted to put them on to see if I liked them before I spent the $175 for new ones. The badges on the hood now (stock) just look so heavy to me. Should have them on when I put the bumper back on. They will go in the same place as the current badges. The other thought is using just the FORD F 100 (it is separate) on the cowl just above the seam between the fender and cowl. If that then nothing on the side of the hood but keep the F O R D on the front. If I use the entire thing in the present location the F O R D out front will leave.

JIMMER's picture
Date Joined: Sep 01, 2011
Posts: 197
Points: 220

Personally I like the clean look for the sides of a ride, no badging. But that is just my preference. Try using a little putty to temporarily hold the badgings in place and see what you feel looks better without having to mount them permanently.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
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Yes I was thinking double sided tape. I am going for a stock look when finished. Well a make you wonder if it's stock or not. Maybe some ultra rare ‘70 F100 that nobody has ever heard of. Possibly a Shelby pickup. Naturally some things will be obvious like the lack of door handles. The front bumper will be one of those is it factory or modified when finished. The shaved wipers I am hoping have the look as if Ford never put wipers in it. Dodge did single wipers in their stripped down cars sold for race usage. Hood badges the same. The '67-’70 all had that piece on the front of the hood. I am wanting to try to maintain that yet “lighten” up the look. Kind of a in the middle between nothing and what is presently there. I know that probably doesn't make much sense. I guess maybe I have just seen too many with that piece shaved. Tryin not to be another “me too”.

I am thinking breaking all the pins off of the FORD F 100 piece so I can stick it flat on the body. It will tell me a lot when I just place the boomerang pieces on top of the current badges. If they are the same height and length I will most likely not use them. This is why I got these pitted up ones to try out first. Didn't want to drop $175 on a new set just to decide “I don't like that”. This way I am out only $25 if I don't like it and that included shipping from AR to IN.

One thing will happen though. The stone guard and hood get primer covering! The whole truck will be one color! Even if it is spray bomb primer. I caught a little mouth when I started that from the wife. She liked the blue but when she seen all the battle scars covered up she decided it wasn't that bad. Good for her. It's my truck! If you are a fan of clean you should like the front bumper when done. So far it looks like I am going to have roughly $700 in it when finished. Sure hope she never gets hit up there.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Well here is the bumper with the plate recess removed.

Bumper on and F O R D removed from the hood. Looks kind of empty to me but I am waiting until the lights are in to make a final decision on putting the F O R D back on.

The right side. I ended up just using the FORD F100 pieces. It was actually heavier to use the boomerang portions than the original.

Left side.

Another left shot.

Ok Jimmer thoughts on using the badges? The ends of the bumper need to go back about 3" on each side. Will have to load it up in a press to make that happen. Still thinking about how to support it in the right places to make that all happen. I like the look of the bumper without the plate recess and mounting bolts.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

The IRS install started today. First a couple pics of the ousted rear end!

The start of the install is to remove the bed from the truck. Once the bed is removed anything preventing removal of the old rear end or install of the IRS needs to come out. In this case the mufflers were far enough forward so they could stay but the tailpipes had to go. This truck is getting a 460/C6 soon so the exhaust will stay as you see it in the pics until the engine swap. As luck would have it there are really only two U Joints used by Ford unless into a heavier truck. The truck's driveshaft had a small size and the Thunderbird had a large. My local auto parts store was able to find a u joint that would allow putting the TBird end on the truck driveshaft. This is a temporary as when the engine and trans swap takes place a new driveshaft will be built. I am intentionally not posting the u joint number as your driveshafts may have different u joints that need merged. Any good parts store should be able to locate the u joint you need.

I purchased new brake hoses and adapters to convert the 3/6" line over to metric so it could be screwed into the TBird hoses. The adapters are Edelmann 271300. The shocks are not being mounted as in the TBird so shorter shocks are needed. There are plenty of options available. I bought mine at Advance Auto. They are front shocks from a 1970–1982 Chevrolet Blazer. The Advance Part number is 59041. The Monroe part number is 33033. Napa also has Monroe shocks with the part number 94005. If you would prefer something different you are looking for a shock with a compressed length of 10 1/8" & an extended length of 14 5/8". You want eye type mounting on both ends.

I purchased a mount kit from Truck IRS. At the time of this entry the kit cost was $395. plus shipping. Ok here we go. Once the rear end and all other required items are removed we measure in 22 5/16" from the end of the frame rail on each side and mark the frame. We will be making a cut vertically from this point 1 3/4". Then with the frame level we mark the frame for a horizontal cut forward the length of the rear mounts. So far so good. Now comes the fun part, time to weld the rear mounts in place. After considerable checking for squareness the rear mounts are tacked into place. You will notive the holes for the rear mount are slotted so you have a fair amount of room to shift the carriage around after the mounts are welded in place. In this install the spring perches and upper shock mounts are still on the frame. Just in case we got scared and wanted to put the 9" back in. They will be coming out here shortly. The mount kit comes with 6 gussets, 3 for each side. It also comes with the upper shock mount ears. Here is what the rear mount should look like at this stage.

At this point and visible in the picture the 2×2 piece of .125 wall tubing is weled into place. The length of this piece is 33 11/16" long. It is positioned centered with the mounting bolts & level. Weld to the top of the rear mounts as well as the frame rail. Here are a few pics of the install so far.

Cutting out the upper shock mount on the passenger side.
 

The upper shock mount (original) on the passenger side prior to removal.
 

A shot of the left side from the back of the cab.
 

A view from above before the 2×2 crossmember was welded in. The line with vice grips on it is the original brake hose.
 

Passenger side view.

A view from the rear of the driver's side.

One advantage to using the Thunderbird IRS: everything is mounted to the carriage. You have 4 main mounting bolts, 2 brake lines, 2 shocks and the driveshaft. Once they are disconnected the entire unit is out of the truck. HD axle shafts are available for this rear end rated for up to 650hp. Larger diameter sway bars are available aftermarket. Aftermarket drop springs are also available. Being an 8.8 you can get gears in practically any ratio you desire including a locker. I will be cutting coils out of my springs to get the correct ride height. If I have a problem with the springs after cutting I will look into other options. That is it for now. More pics tomorrow as we finish up the install and get the bed back on.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

The front mounts are in along with the 2×2 crossmember & coil springs. At this time 1/2 coil has been removed. Not much more to report at this time. The bed should be going on tomorrow morning.

Passenger side front mount in place.


Another view of the passenger side front mount.


A view from the rear of the left side front mount.


Another view of the left side front mount.


A closeup of the left front mount.


A closeup of the passenger side front mount.


View from above of the 2×2 in place.


View from above front.


Cutting off the left front spring perch.


Passenger side with both spring perches removed.


Putting the coil springs in. Left side view.


Here is a shot from behind.


I want to add that dimensions listed here are for a SWB pickup. I cannot confirm it as of this time but believe the 22 5/16" dimension would change to 26 5/16" on a LWB pickup.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

The wheels are on this morning for a look. Still need to do the shocks, brakes, driveshaft & a few odds and ends. In these shots the hoist is completely on the ground. The truck is sitting on it's suspension. 

Left side from the front.


Right side from the rear.


Right side from the front.


From behind.


It is not easy to see with the hoist in the way but there is a rake from front to rear. How much is left when the bed is on we shall see. I can adjust either way (too high or too low) once the 460 is in and I have a final ride height on the front. That will determine the rear.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

I want to say something concerning the time it is taking to do the install. My truck is in a shop and my install is not a priority job. Under normal conditions it would have been finished way before now. I had to put my truck in a shop because of a heart attack I had requiring a defibulator implant. One of my new rules for life is I am no longer allowed to be around welding. I planned on doing this install until the heart attack happened. The work is being performed by Greg Wilson at Moonlight Automotive in Greenwood, IN. There are two people I trust welding on my frame and he is one of them. To keep costs down my truck gets worked on as time permits.

At the end of the IRS install portion of my build thread I will be posting some information concerning locating the location of the cut into the frame. The dimension I used above is the same dimension on the Truck IRS website. It is perfect for Ford SWB pickups. If you have something else that dimension will not work. I have found a better way to locate the cut. I have also been communicating with Dave at Truck IRS via email and together we are attempting to alter the install instructions so that they will work for anyone wanting to do this type of install.

Ok enough of that off to more pics! First we have the driveshaft installed. It uses that blend u joint spoke of above. I was somewhat concerned about length differences but it looks as though the 9" and the 8.8 are the same or at least very close to the same length from the center of the axle to the front of the third member. I have seen pics of putting the 9" yoke on the front of the 8.8. I do not like this as the 8.8 has a plate on the front the driveshaft bolts to. Since I will be having a driveshaft built in the future I wanted the TBird rear left as a TBird. When finished it will take a u joint for a 1995 TBird. Nothing special or difficult to find. So this install can be done without altering your current driveshaft if that be your desire. Just have a real parts guy find you the correct u joint.




Now we have some pics of getting the brake lines ran. The original hose was replaced although it did not need to be. A T could have been put in line at the point of the old hose and solid lines ran to the new hoses for each wheel. I bought new hoses for each wheel and it was determined the best mounting point was on the front mount. The plan is finishing her up Monday if time permits. Oh just for the die hard Ford people out there while I was at Moonlight yesterday taking pics a guy walked in and asked me if I was the owner. Cutting the story short he absolutely loves the swap. Then he went in to tell me he had a lowered truck. I asked and he said an 86 Chevrolet. I asked how he lowered it and he said springs and shackle kit. “Rides like crap and bottoms out on the bump stops out back”. I thought it kinda cool a Chevrolet person was doing a thumbs up to a Ford truck!




The new upper hose is mounted to an existing hole in the carriage that we tapped to accept a 5/16" bolt.


Now just some pics of the lines installed.



All that is left is bleeding the brakes out! I am hoping to get some pics of the shock mounts before the bed is on. They had not been welded on at the time of these pics and Grag was hoping to have the bed set on the frame tonight. If so no pics of the shock mounts. I will post pics from the truckirs.com website showing location of the upper shock mounts.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

I did not get pics of the mounts prior to install but wanted to note something nice about them. The mounting holes are slotted. All effort should be put into installing the mounts squarely and evenly but if the rear mounts are a bit forward or rearward the mounting holes are slotted so the carriage can be moved accordingly to align on original centerline of the axle.

The front mounts are slotted side to side. This allows for moving the front of the carriage to the left or right. If you are close but dog tracking a bit this adjustment will solve that problem.

JIMMER's picture
Date Joined: Sep 01, 2011
Posts: 197
Points: 220

Wow, a heart attack? Sorry to hear that. I hope you are getting the rest you need. Glad to see you are still going forward with the restoration. Now you need to keep us posted on 2 things. Your recovery and your restoration. LOL. Get well soon buddy.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

There is no recovery. I have a large clot in the bottom of my heart. If it breaks loose it's fatal. If I make it another 10 yrs they are talking transplant. They told me this one was not my first. I missed the first one :) The first damaged the bottom of my heart and now it is just dead. Hoping to get the test drive today!

Tbird88's picture
Date Joined: Apr 03, 2011
Posts: 254
Points: 301

Awesome build!!!!!!!!!

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

The truck is on the ground and for the most part finished. The left bearing is bad and caused the tire to rub. Had to leave it and have the bearing replaced. Couldn't drive it very far at all the way it is. I did get to take it for a short run and it rides excellent!



The passenger shock getting lined up for the upper mounts to be put in. From the front view.


Same side from the rear view.


From the rear.


I did not make it back to get picks of the shocks installed before the bed went on but do have a couple pics of the upper mounts. Passenger side.


Drivers side.


Bed on, from the rear, still on the hoist.



Under the truck, left side, from the front.


Under the truck, right side, from the front.


Outside. Not the best pics but I will take more tomorrow.

 

JIMMER's picture
Date Joined: Sep 01, 2011
Posts: 197
Points: 220

Looking great buddy. She's gonna turn a lot of heads.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
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Thanks. I am taking more pics today but to give an idea of how she sits. I am 5'11" and can look straight across the roofline without it being un my line of sight. The roof is about even with my mouth.

Tbird88's picture
Date Joined: Apr 03, 2011
Posts: 254
Points: 301

Looking great, what's the plan for paint?

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Flowing from black on the bottom through 5 phases to gold on top as the base. On top of that a transparent Saphire Blue (candy) giving it a subtle flow from dark blue on the bottom to a lighter blue on top. Once the blue is just the right 3 color flames. Using the same blue maybe 6 more coats on the nose then 4 in the mid section and 2 on the tips. Very subtle flames. How it looks at the time will determine how many more coats in each section of the flames.

I have a bit more body mods to do before that day. Paint is probably a couple years off yet. Next is the engine. I have a 460/C6 combo I am putting in. Then save pennies to get the engine and trans built. Then comes all new wiring, body & paint. Have no idea what I am going to do for an interior. Bounce back and forth between modern plush decked out or minimalist old truck style interior.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Got some pics today to give an idea of scale. I am 5'11" tall.





 

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
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A couple night pics.


My wife and a friend of ours, Brandy.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
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Pics of the dash. Here it is as purchased.

This is the plan for this area. The 2 idiot lights changed over to green and utilized as turn signal indicators. The PRNDL changed out for a correct display for the C6. The 2 switch wells painted to match the dash in the current blue areas. The left side will house from left to right ignition switch, headlight switch, emergency flashers. The right side will house HVAC controls. That is all the switches that will be in the dash. The speedo head will be modified to house 4 gauges. 

This shot is of the left “wing”. They are staying. I will cut them off where the door opens and attach the pieces cut off onto the inside of the doors. 

The right “wing”

The glovebox door will be welded in along with the ashtray. The holes for the radio, clock & HVAC controls will be closed up. The hole in the top for the speaker will be closed up. I will create speaker mounts in each end of the top of the dash. One of the things I really like about this particular dash other that appearance is the defroster vent. It is all along the windshield. The trim piece that goes at the base of the windshield hides it letting air escape at the base of the windshield. I am also planning a long thin slit added to the bottom of the dash that will be utilized for HVAC vent instead of traditional louvers.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Got some engine swap pics today. I ordered headers for a '74 F100 2WD 460 pickup. In this first pic the engine is sitting on the CV crossmember. The headers dump into the firewall. Engine needs to go down at least 3". Rear sump pan required or totally custom fabbed headers. I am opting for the rear sump pan.

Truck's new hat?

Spare parts?

Tbird88's picture
Date Joined: Apr 03, 2011
Posts: 254
Points: 301

Awesome!! Just love this truck!!

slammedi'am's picture
Date Joined: May 18, 2011
Posts: 104
Points: 149

Nice build

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Ordered my plates Monday. FARM TRK I thought it fitting. Got to hear her breath fire last Saturday. Hoping to have it drivable by the weekend.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

I managed to get the engine tore down today. Should have parts to put it back together tomorrow.

Hood storage

Our new plate for the truck

The core support is set up for a 6cyl. I have a big block core support coming but until then I need to open up the core support for more air flow.

An old man pulling the lower hose

Pulling the radiator

The original opening

The same old man cutting out the opening

Carb off. If you look closely you will see a passage below the carb on the right rear for the egr system. The C8 intake does not have this passage. Both intakes are dual plane. 

PS pump out of the way

Valve cover off to reveal a Pennzoil/Quaker State or some other paraffin based oil engine. Have some cleanup to do here. 

There's that old man again

Intake, water pump & harmonic balancer pulled. We can now see how bad the valley is caked with paraffin 

That guy is just plain fat!

Timing cover off. Not that easy to see but the timing set is shot. Just doing a replacement would greatly help but I am advancing the stock cam 4* with the replacement timing set 

Another shot of the valley

These pistons are dished out in the center (lower compression). The pistons in the engine that donated the heads were flat top with valve relief cuts in them. 

More pics tomorrow as the engine goes back together.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Time to put her back together again.

Cleaning major parts at the car wash.

Timing cover on, heads set in place & putting the head bolts in. 

Rockers back in & intake on.

Nothing like getting into your work. All the bending over doing this still has my back feeling it. Gotta love getting old. Bolting on the left header in this pic. 

Connecting vac lines on the back of the intake.

Water pump on.

Distributor tore down for recurving. I had 10L & 15L slots in mine. It was originally set on the 15L slot. I moved it to the 10L slot. It may get moved back we will see how it all goes. 

Distributor back together, PS pump on, 1" carb spacer & carb on. 

Valve covers going on.

Air cleaner on. Still needs painted & will be replaced with a pretty one in the future. 

This has definitely “woke up the sleeping giant”. Hopefully Monday I am picking up a 750 dp for the engine. It has been worth every bit of effort. The higher compression has given her a deeper, throatier sound out the pipes. Pulling out of the driveway for the test drive I got sideways with it without even trying. That woke me up.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

I installed pwr windows in my truck some time back with issues. Always had a plan to get back to it & fix my mistakes. When I originally did the install I used the track on my windows which was the beginning of my mistake. The next thing I did wrong was I set the regulator at halfway & mounted based on that with the window halfway up. The track on the bump windows is narrower & shorter. The original track is still on the window in this picture with the F150 track laying on the window just above it

This required grinding the nylon down on the end of the '90 F150 regulators so that it would fit.

This is what the nylon looks like when in the F150.

We start by removing the door panel. I assume most all know how to do that.

You will notice a screw located just above the door panel. This screw is part of what hold the vent window in. You will also notice I have a hole in my door panel. That is where the crank was. In this next image we see 3 screws running up the front of the door. These too help hold the vent window in place.

In this picture you will see I have made 2 cuts in the door to remove the recessed areas. They are in the way of the regulator movement. Just below the regulator gear you see a nut. That is the final piece that holds the vent window in place.

Since we will be changing the track we need to remove the vent window in order to remove the main glass. Once it is removed either you can change the track or you can take it to a local glass shop & they will do it for you. I was going to do mine but the rubber was so far deteriorated I ended up taking it to a glass shop. It cost $10 to have them put it together with new rubber. A great investment in my opinion. Here is the window with the track removed.

Here is the window after I got it back from the glass shop.

You will notice in the picture of the door with the panel removed 3 shiny nuts. Those are what was holding the regulator in place. What you want to do is set the regulator in the all the way down position. At this point when laced into the track You will be able to line up one of the holes with the lower right original regulator hole. You will also notice that the window travels upward through the door on an angle. You want to set the regulator up to match this angle of travel as best as you can. This reduces stress on all the pieces involved. I used 1/4" flat washers that I glued together. In this lower right corner I used 9 washers. I had to move slightly to the left of my original holes from the 1st attempt. In the top right I used 5 washers & top left I used 7. I used a small tie wrap laced through the washers to lower them in place without losing them in the bottom of the door. It worked well.

You major issue in doing this is the hinge mounts at the front of the door but spacing the regulator out to match travel path allows the regulator to clear with no interference. This is a great mod in my opinion that can be accomplished with factory parts. Cost to accomplish is minimal. Regulator with motor & track from Pull A Part is $20.xx per door. Not sure what switches & the harness would cost but I am betting you will come in under $75. Any future problems & you are using off the shelf Ford parts that you can get at any parts store.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Current picture of our truck.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Well went shopping today for rear gears. I could not find and 3.55s I did find 3.27, 3.73 & 4.10. Some with Limited Slip & some open diff. I think I am going to go with the 4.10 Limited Slip. My problem then becomes locating spider gears. The carrier is in an Explorer which should be 31 spline. I need 28 with the MN12. I will most likely put the ring & pinion in with the open diff while locating the spiders I need for the Limited Slip.

What is this you ask. It is the pinion gear from my 4.10 gears going in my truck!

Here is the Limited Slip carrier. Life is good!

I actually found a set of the 3.55s that I originally wanted today. My wife would have divorced me if I didn't do the 4.10 gears. Ok not really but she did want the lower gears.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
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Points: 113

I swapped out the rear gears today from 3.08 to 4.10.

A couple pics from behind after the rear was out of the truck.

The spindle is held on with 3 bolts. I left the axle shaft in the hub & dropped the entire spindle axle shaft & all.

Time to do something about all that grey hair! All you young guys this is what happens to your hair from working on old trucks! I have the gears swapped in this pic. The old gears are sitting on the floor next to me. I was pulling the fill plug from the rear cover in preparation for the install.

Staging for the install.

Getting it under the truck & aligned for install.

Running up the 2 front mount bolts.

Finishing up with getting the spindle back in place.

Final step prior to adding fluid. Reinstalling the driveshaft.

I have not a chance to do much driving with the new gears yet but what I have done I think I went too far. Quicker? Not so sure. I will probably end up trying either 3.73 gears next or the 3.55 ratio I originally wanted.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Well the 4.10s are gone. Swapped them & the 31 spline Limited Slip for a 28 spline (for the IRS) Limited Slip & 3.55 gears. Got the Limited Slip tore down & spyders out. Took them & 1 from the open diff to the machine shop to have the groove machined into the Limited Slip gears that I need for the IRS. They told me a week so my little truck sits for a week while we wait impatiently.

Just when is the point when you decide this may not have been 1 of your better ideas?

Just kidding. It really isn't that bad. It's the wait on the machine shop that has me stalled.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Picked up the spyder gears from the machine shop yesterday. They were good to me. Said take them & we will worry about cost later. I had read so much about how difficult it was putting the S Clip back in but it was no big deal. Line it up & give it a good wrap with a decent size hammer & in it went.

Need to get the pinion bearing finished & then put it all back into the truck.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Well it's official the 3.55s are in along with Limited Slip & the Holley 4bbl (750 cfm, vac secondaries & elec choke). All I can say is I love it. I don't even have the carb totally dialed in. I will get my wife to take some video. The carb made a big difference. You could hear it in the exhaust as soon as I started it. I think the 3.55s are perfect. My little truck will definitely plant you firmly in the seat.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Thought I would post a few pics of the progress on the '57 Fairlane dash modification & swap process. The glove box, ash tray, radio opening, clock opening, heater control opening & factory speaker opening all welded shut & smoothing process started. Building the lower slit that will be used as the vent now.

The original speaker hole (rectangular shape) was closed & 2 circular speaker holes created using the original grate as a cover.

<[img src=“http://www.fordification.com/galleries/albums/userpics/11892/004%7E0.JPG”>

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Started on the hood today. Here are a few pics. I started with the original hood.

Some shots of how we will be cutting the web structure underneath. I did not get the top side pics today but will have some Monday. Just so everyone knows what the plan is I am raising the portion of the hood that is raised originally another 3/4". This will give the hood a very subtle cowl induction look maintaining all the factory lines. The hope is when finished it might look like Ford did this at the factory.

Across the front of the hood.

Down the left side.

Did get the braces cut today that will be welded in to hold the proper shape of the hood when it is cut apart.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Got the hood cut today. Whose great idea was this anyway?

Now the piece removed.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Got some pics of the hood mods to date. Almost ready to put the top back on.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Just noticed I typoed 1 of the dash images.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

The top of the hood is tacked on now. Won't be long & it will be back on the truck. The tacks across the original seam are temporary. They will be removed & the seam in place when it is all finished.

elgemcdlf's picture
Date Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 90
Points: 113

Well here are some pics of the hood as it stands. It still needs finish work done so this is raw form. I am planning on making the Fordification show in Anderson, MO so anyone there can get a much closer look.

When the truck is finished it will have 3/16"-1/4" gaps on all panels.